Lübeck is one of Germany’s greatest treasures. Not only was the city spared annihilation in WWII, but unlike other beautiful cities, Lübeck was relevant to German history. At the center of the Medieval Hanseatic League, Lübeck led an alliance of cities and merchant republics that stretched across northern Europe. The alliance empowered cities and aided in the German eastward expansion and urban development. The brick-Gothic style, which almost characterized Hanseatic ambition, can be found all across the Baltic Sea, from Estonia to Denmark. Though Lübeck would fall into decline with shifting patterns of trade after the 17th century, the city left an indelible mark on European history.
Its is a pleasant surprise then, to find out that Lübeck survived the war, mostly. It was the first German city to be bombed, and thus was not subjected to the devastation of late-war bombing campaigns. That being said, the core of the inner-city was gutted, eliminating about 20% of the overall number of historic buildings. In particular, the bombing raid annihilated the Church of St. Mary, which housed innumerable medieval treasures of the Hanseatic league. Most of the other churches and major buildings were also significantly damaged. The difference though was in post-war urban planning, which sought to preserve as much of the historical cityscape as possible. It is really these efforts which allow us to enjoy the city as it is today.
The main thing to see in Lübeck is the cityscape and the story of the houses that comprise it. Most of the churches were destroyed in the war, and are not particularly interesting from the inside. The city also lost most of its museum collections in the war, leaving us without any central historical museum. Likewise the cityhall, which survived the war, is largely a creation of the late 19th century and may not be especially interesting. In my opinion at least, the best places to visit are the many home-museums. Lübeck is unique in Germany for having numerous homes with completely preserved interiors.
Also unique to Lübeck in Germany, is the story of its architectural development, which can be seen clearly in the varied facades of its homes. Most cities and towns in Germany have a dominant style, due to some past catastrophe and a uniform reconstruction. WWII is the most obvious example, but the devastation of the 30 Years War and War of Palatine Succession also left us with purely Baroque Cityscapes across Saxony and the Rhineland. In Lübeck we can see a cityscape back as far as the 14th century. Every street has a multitude of facades spanning virtually every stylistic period. As one of the few truely immersive cityscapes in Germany, Lübeck should be at the top of your list to visit.